Friday, 6 October 2023

TEXTILES - TERMINOLOGIES, CLASSFICATION, IDENTIFICATION & MANUFACTURING NOTES

 

Textile Terminologies and Classification

 

 Fiber:

Definition: Fibers are the fundamental building blocks of textiles. They are thin, threadlike structures that can be natural or synthetic and are used to make yarns and fabrics.

Natural Fibers: Derived from plant or animal sources, e.g., cotton, wool, silk.

 Synthetic Fibers: Manufactured from chemical compounds, e.g., polyester, nylon, acrylic.

 Microfibers: Extremely fine fibers, often less than one denier in diameter, known for their softness and ability to wick moisture.

 

 Yarn:

 Definition: Yarn is a continuous strand of fibers twisted together for strength and flexibility.

 Single Yarn: Made from a single strand of fibers.

 Ply Yarn: Created by twisting two or more singles yarns together.

 Carded Yarn: Fibers are loosely arranged and aligned.

 Combed Yarn: Fibers are aligned and shorter fibers are removed, resulting in smoother and stronger yarns.

 

 Weave:

 Definition: Weave refers to the pattern in which yarns are interlaced to create a fabric.

 Plain Weave: Simple over and under pattern; durable but lacks elasticity.

 Twill Weave: Diagonal pattern; stronger and more pliable than plain weave.

 Satin Weave: Smooth surface with long floats; shiny and luxurious.

 Jacquard Weave: Complex patterns created by a Jacquard loom; used for intricate designs.

 

 Fabric:

 Definition: Fabric is a flexible material created by weaving, knitting, felting, or other methods. It is the end product of textile production.

 Knit Fabric: Made by interlocking loops of yarn; stretches well and is comfortable.

 Woven Fabric: Created by weaving yarns together; less stretch but often more durable.

 Nonwoven Fabric: Produced by bonding fibers together, e.g., felt; lacks a distinct weave pattern.

 

 Classification of Fibers, Yarns, and Weaves

 

 Classification of Fibers:

1. Natural Fibers:

    Plant Based Fibers: Cotton, flax (linen), jute.

    Animal Based Fibers: Wool, silk.

    Mineral Based Fibers: Asbestos (historical use).

  

2. Synthetic Fibers:

    Polymer Based: Polyester, nylon, acrylic.

    Cellulosic Based: Rayon, acetate, modal.

 

3. Regenerated Fibers:

    Semi Synthetic: Bamboo, soy.

  

4. Specialty Fibers:

    High Performance: Aramid (e.g., Kevlar), carbon fiber.

    Conductive: Conductive textiles for electronic applications.

 

 Classification of Yarns:

1. Single Yarns:

    Cotton Yarn: Made from cotton fibers.

    Wool Yarn: Made from wool fibers.

    Polyester Yarn: Made from polyester fibers.

 

2. Ply Yarns:

    Two Ply Yarn: Two singles yarns twisted together.

    Three Ply Yarn: Three singles yarns twisted together.

 

3. Blended Yarns:

    Combines different fiber types for desired properties, e.g., polyester cotton blend.

 

 Classification of Weaves:

1. Plain Weave Patterns:

    Balanced Plain Weave: Equal number of warp and weft threads.

    Unbalanced Plain Weave: Different densities of warp and weft threads.

 

2. Twill Weave Patterns:

    Satin Twill: High sheen, diagonal lines.

    Herringbone Twill: Zigzag pattern.

  

3. Satin Weave Patterns:

    Sateen: Similar to satin but with less shine.

 

4. Special Weave Patterns:

    Dobby Weave: Small, geometric patterns.

    Jacquard Weave: Elaborate, intricate designs.

 

 Identification of Fibers and Weaves

 

 Fiber Identification:

1. Visual Inspection:

    Observe the colour, lustre, and texture of the fiber.

 

2. Burn Test:

    Burn a small sample and observe the flame, smoke, and smell.

    Cotton burns quickly with a steady flame; smells like burning paper.

    Wool burns slowly with a sputtering flame; smells like burning hair.

    Polyester melts and shrinks from the flame.

 

3. Microscopic Examination:

    Use a microscope to examine fiber structure and surface characteristics.

 

4. Chemical Tests:

    Chemical reagents can be used to react with fibers and produce distinct reactions for identification.

Weave Identification:

1. Visual Inspection:

    Examine the fabric for the characteristic patterns of different weaves.

  

2. Touch and Feel:

    Run your fingers across the fabric to assess its texture and structure.

 

3. Thread Count:

    Count the number of warp and weft threads per inch to determine the weave density.

 

4. Cross Sectional Analysis:

    Cut a small sample and examine the cross section under a microscope to identify the weave structure.


 Manufacturing Process, Properties, and End Uses of Natural and Manmade Fibers

 

Introduction:

          Fibers play a crucial role in the textile industry, providing the raw material for various fabrics and products. They can be categorized into natural fibers, which are derived from plants and animals, and manmade fibers, which are synthesized from various raw materials.

Natural Fibers:

 1. Cotton Fiber:

    Manufacturing Process: Cotton fibers are harvested from the cotton plant's bolls. After harvesting, the cotton undergoes ginning, which separates the fibers from seeds and other impurities. The cleaned fibers are then carded and spun into yarn.

    Properties: Cotton fibers are known for their softness, breathability, and moisture absorbing properties. They are comfortable to wear and suitable for warm weather.

    End Uses: Cotton is widely used for making clothing, bed linens, towels, and various textile products.

 

2. Wool Fiber:

    Manufacturing Process: Wool is obtained from sheep, goats, or other animals with fleece. The fleece is sheared, and then the wool undergoes processes like cleaning, carding, and spinning.

    Properties: Wool is known for its warmth, moisture wicking properties, and natural insulation. It is resilient, elastic, and comfortable to wear.

    End Uses: Wool is used to make a variety of clothing items, blankets, carpets, and upholstery.

  

 Manmade Fibers:

 1. Polyester Fiber:

    Manufacturing Process: Polyester is produced through a polymerization process, where petrochemicals are converted into polymer chips. These chips are then melted and extruded into filaments, which are stretched and cooled to form fibers.

    Properties: Polyester fibers are durable, wrinkle resistant, and have good moisture wicking properties. They are often blended with other fibers for various applications.

    End Uses: Polyester is used in clothing, sportswear, upholstery, and as a filling material in pillows and duvets.

 

2. Nylon Fiber:

    Manufacturing Process: Nylon is synthesized from petrochemicals through a process called polymerization. The resulting polymer is extruded into filaments, which are stretched and heat set to form fibers.

    Properties: Nylon fibers are strong, resilient, and have excellent abrasion resistance. They also have good elasticity and are used in applications requiring durability.

    End Uses: Nylon is used in hosiery, sportswear, swimwear, and various industrial applications like automotive components.

 

3. Rayon Fiber:

    Manufacturing Process: Rayon is a semisynthetic fiber derived from wood pulp or cellulose. The cellulose is dissolved in chemicals to create a viscous solution, which is then extruded through spinnerets to form fibers.

    Properties: Rayon has a soft, silky feel, and it drapes well. It can mimic the properties of natural fibers like cotton, silk, or wool, depending on the manufacturing process.

    End Uses: Rayon is used in clothing, upholstery, and as a component in various blends

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